Showing posts with label Animal Pet. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Animal Pet. Show all posts

Thursday, February 10, 2011

Petit Basset Griffon High Class Show and Breeders

The Petit Basset Griffon is definitely not a breed for everyone.He is not a lap dog and he is not a shaggy Basset Hound, as some would have him be.His resemblance to the Basset Hound is in the set and fold of his ear, his noble hound expression. As previously mentioned, the Petit Basset Griffon has been very popular as a hunter in France for nearly a century.His popularity in the show ring has increased over the last twenty years, attaining recognition by the kennel clubs of Canada,Great Britain and the United States. Petits are shown in almost every European country.Besides the field and the conformation ring, versatile PBGVs have made their marks in obedience, tracking, agility, flyball, frees tyle obed ie nce, ther ap y work a nd search and rescue.

Interest in the United States was sparked at the "Super Match" in 1983, when a 12 week-old Canad ian -born puppy, Belray AlexanderGebeba, entered in the rare breed class, won Best in Match, defeating over 3,000 other dogs. Ten years earlier, Mrs. Elizabeth Streeter of Pennsylvania imported some Petit puppies fromFrance and England for the purpose of creating a working pack. Her Skycastle Pack created interest at the Bryn Mawr (Pennsylvania) Hound Show, but it did not spread. It was that puppy in the ring at the Super Match who started it all. Publicity began word ofmouth...Dog World. Canine Chronicle and others. Importations began. Puppies were brought back from London and Copenhagen. As interest grew, adults and puppies were imported fromCanada, Denmark,England, France, Sweden, Holland and Germany. Mrs. Streeter, who died in 1987, was the first to whelp litters in the U.S., breeding only when it was necess ary to add to her pack.

As word of the Petit and the Super Match spread from coas t to coast, there seemed to be sufficient interest  not on the part of the general public but on the part of fanciers, especially hound enthusiasts for some sort
of organization in this count ry. To protect and promote the breed, and to educate and inform those interested so that sensible importations would follow, the Petit Basset Griffon Vendéen Club of America was formed at the AKC Centennial Show in Philadelphia in November 1984. Eleven individuals, representing several states and a variety of breeds, but all with years of experience in dogs constituted the foundation of the national club. A bimonthly newsletter was started, which has now grown to the quarterly Saber Tails magazine.

Much was accomplished in the first years of the club's existence. By the end of 1985, the Petit Basset Griffon had grown from11 to 50members.A breed standard had been accepted, the const itution and bylaws adopted and a stud book and registry set up.The club had also notified the AKC of its intent to work toward eventual AKC recognition. The first national club event was held in Kentucky on March 16, 1986, during the tenth anniversary celebration of the Louisville Kennel Club. Fifteen Petits came fromall over the United Stat es to compete.

In 1987, the second annual meeting of the club and the first National Specialty were held in Louisville. Twenty-four Petits were entered, and 22 shown. Best of Breed was Axmos Don Ranudo de la Garonne.
On July 1, 1989, the Petit Basset Griffon became eligible to compete in AKC Miscellaneous classes. Belray Sirhan Braconnier was the first PBGVto gain an AKC title, earning his Companion Dog obedience degree nine days later. Full recognition followed swiftly on February 1, 1991. Fifteen days later, Axmos Fagin de la Garonne went down in the record books as the first Petit Basset Griffon to earn an AKC championship. In 1992, 24 champion Petits represented their breed at the prestigious Westminster Kennel Club show for the first time, with Jomil Ultra bearing away the laurels for the first Best of Breed there. Since AKC recognition, the numbers of fanciers and Petits have grown steadily. Depending upon the part of the country, 80 to 150 PBGVsmay be seen at the National Specialty held each spring.

GREYHOUNDS Diagnosis of Hypothyroidism and Care

The paired thyroid glands are located in the upper part of the neck beside the trachea (windpipe). When stimulated by the hormone TSH (thyroid stimulating hormone) produced by the brain's pituitary gland, the thyroid glands produce and release thyroid hormones (T3 & T4) into the bloodstream. Thyroid hormones are important in many areas of body metabolism. Thyroid deficiency (hypothyroidism) most commonly results in dermatologic disorders, reproductive abnormalities, lethargy and mental dullness, obesity. slow heart rate (normal in our greyhound athletes), and less commonly, muscle and nerve dysfunction.

Hypothyroidism is one of the most over-diagnosed conditions in veterinary medicine and is a scapegoat for conditions as diverse as lethargy and hyperactivity, shyness and aggression. While any of these manifestations is possible, hypothyroidism is far from the answer to everything. Every owner of every fat dog wants to "fix it" with thyroid pills. Similarly, veterinarians pray for a hypothyroid diagnosis to explain every non-responsive skin case.

The difficulty in diagnosing hypothyroidism in greyhounds is twofold:
1) There are inherent imperfections in measuring T4 levels.
2) Normal greyhound T4s are lower than those in the general canine population.

The diagnosis of hypothyroidism should be based on the correlation of abnormally low thyroid function tests combined with a clinical history compatible with hypothyroidism. "Low" T4s in the absence of clinical signs are useless and many a greyhound winds up on unnecessary lifelong Soloxine. A study by Bloomberg at the University of Florida measured T4s in 221 greyhounds who had been prescreened for other endocrinopathies. They ranged in age from 11 months to 10 years. The T4 range was .5 - 3.6, with a mean of 1.47. Of 221 greyhounds, 48 had T4s below 1.0. Keep in mind that most commercial diagnostic labs consider these normal greyhound means, borderline to low.

The breakdown was: Mean T4
97 in training or racers 1.53
99 brood bitches 1.56
25 stud dogs .94
221 total 1.47

It was theorized that the lower T4s among studs might be because T4 concentrations tend to decrease with older age in canines. These findings correlate well with an article in the Februarv, 2000 issue of "Veterinary
Medicine", (Common Skin Diseases in Greyhounds), which gives a greyhound normal T4 range of .7 - 3.6.
Little emphasis is placed on T3 as a diagnostic tool for canine hypothyroidism, but both these
sources show higher T3s for greyhounds vs. other dogs.

While T4 is the standard hypothyroid screening test, Many extraneous factors can suppress T4 including anorexia, sickness, and a variety of drugs, most importantly steroids, sulfas and seizure medications. "Sick euthyroid" refers to the common condition where the dog has normal thyroid function but illness lowers the T4. These dogs do not require Soloxine. It is unknown if the extreme stresses of racing, travel, and dense kennel populations may also play a role in thyroid gland function.

If there is concurrent illness, the T4 will be low and it doesn't mean a thing (sick euthyroid). Therefore, the ideal situation with new adoptees is resolving health problems first, then testing once the greyhound is healthy and has been off the track six months or more. Though six months isn't written in stone, it is ample time for poor haircoats/bald thighs to re-grow and for "spooks" to show their true colors. if after a reasonable time period and return to health, there are still clinical signs and a low T4, a free: T4 (fT4) by equilibrium dialysis and TSH are recommended. ff4 by equilibrium dialysis (be sure this is the method used) is essentially a T4 reading that's less influenced by extraneous factors. TSH is a compromise to actual TSH stimulation, which is considered the "gold standard" in thyroid testing, but is not widely available. With all of these, it is imperative
not to heparinize the red top tube the sample is collected in.

This may seem like a lot of testing and a waste of money to some, but it's very simple (a blood draw) and beats keeping a greyhound unnecessarily on Soloxine forever on the basis of one "low" T4. A simplistic explanation of TSH is that if your greyhound is truly low on T4, the pituitary responds by cranking out TSH by the boatload -- essentially screaming "Make, more T4!" While TSH isn't a perfect test either, the combination of T4, ff4, and TSH gives you a much better assessment than just a T4. If T4 is borderline and TSH is on the low side, the dog is unlikely to be hypothyroid. But, if T4 is borderline and TSH is high or at least towards the high end of normal, it's cause to try Soloxlne. The chart below compares panels run on three different dogs with the T4, fT4 and TSH using All-breed “normal" standards set by IDEXX Lab.

Finally, if you just cannot tell from blood tests, often the best test is a 6-week trial on Soloxine. If signs resolve, there's your answer. If his thighs stay bald, please don't leave him on Soloxlne forever. Bald thigh syndrome in greyhounds is as yet of uncertain etiology, some respond to Soloxine, some don't. If you're just not sure it helped, stop the Soloxine in 6 weeks and see if things get worse again once he's off it.

The last mud to tread through with regard to hypothyroidism is dosing. Just about all veterinarians agree that brand name Soloxine is superior -- accept no substitutes. Dr. Jim Gannon, author of Care of the Racing Greyhound and probably the most knowledgeable greyhound vet on the planet recommends .1 to .2 mg per greyhound twice daily. The standard dog dose is .1 mg/lO# twice daily. The above-mentioned Veterinary Medicine article goes with this dose. The new 2000 Ettinger's Textbook of Veterinary Internal Medicine ("the bible") says that once clinical signs resolve, you can often drop to once daily. I split the difference and give
greyhounds half the standard dog dose (.1 mg/20#) twice daily. What can't be a good idea is pushing huge Soloxine doses in an effort to push these greyhound T4s up into the 3.0s and 4.0s. Greyhound T4s aren't normally that high, and I worry about the unhealthy effects of hyperthyroidism (heart, kidney, GI Tract) when this is done.

English Springer Spaniel Good Length of Stride Puppy

English Springer Spaniel Keep in mind that there is a “point of correctness” and anything beyond it is exaggeration, which creates angulation the dog is unable to utilize. This is particularly a problem in Springer hindquarters. A properly angulated rear, posed with the rear pasterns vertical, will stand with the front of the toes approximately under the rearmost point of the buttocks. Dogs that stand with their feet considerably behind this point have either too much angulation or excessive length of the second thigh (or both). Musculature cannot support that exaggerated bone length and therefore strength and endurance are seriously compromised. Because of this lack of support, coupled with improper forequarter construction, we often see dogs that have “fused” joints that cannot open in movement. This is not limited to the hock joint (sickle hocks) but includes the stifle joint as well.

When assessing movement it is always best to see the dog go on a loose lead. A English Springer Spaniel should maintain his upstanding outline when moving, but will naturally put his head somewhat forward for balance. The English Springer Spaniel gait should be smooth, well coordinated and effortless, showing good length of stride. A dog with a correctly built forequarter will move forward with total ease, using a minimum amount of energy. Feet should remain close to the ground through all phases of the trot, and should converge toward a center line of travel. Tails should be carried merrily, but never approaching “straight up”. Any sort of fancy, high stepping, kicking up or exaggerated side gait is a devise used by the dog to adjust foot timing and avoid interference. Since this action uses tremendous effort, it cannot be sustained for any length of time and is therefore inappropriate for an endurance trotting dog.

A correct  English Springer Spaniel coat is a weather protective jacket. Topcoat should lie firmly against the body, feel alive and resilient, and be of sufficient length to provide the dog with protection from the elements. The soft, dense undercoat will vary with climate and season, but some should be apparent. Springer grooming has become an art form, and it is up to the judge to look beyond an artful trim to the dog underneath. Trimming is fine, but if the dog is sculpted into a shape by excessive barbering (especially of the topcoat or underline), then it is over trimmed and should be penalized.  English Springer Spaniel judging should never be reduced to a trimming and presentation contest.

Of course they should always be spotlessly clean, in proper weight and muscle and glowing with good health-but the mediocre dog with the glamorous trim should never defeat the good dog with a more casual haircut. A good Springer, with his quality and virtues enhanced by a knowing trim, is a beautiful sight. A poor Springer with an ultra-fancy trim is still a poor  English Springer Spaniel , and it is important that judges are able to discern the difference.

English Springer Spaniel  Temperament has been much in the news in the past few years. Breeders have worked very hard to stabilize temperament and judges around the country are commenting favorably on the improvement of temperament in the ring. Springers should be friendly and agreeable in the ring, with some allowance for unsureness in puppies and novices. They should display poise, intelligence and confidence. Aggression, towards either people or other dogs, is unacceptable. The standard clearly defines type as the most important consideration when judging the Springer.

The standard clearly defines type as the most important consideration when judging the Springer. The typical English Springer Spaniel combines beauty with utility, which means that the Springer should be lovely to look at without sacrificing the qualities of head, substance, bone, balance and movement defined as being necessary for function in the breed standard. The flashy, extreme, exaggerated dog, lacking in the basic spaniel characteristics so important to maintaining the integrity of the breed, should not be valued over the correctly balanced and proportioned one who looks the part of a stylish, capable, useful hunting partner and endearing family companion. This is the purpose for which the English Springer Spaniel was created, and this is how he should be maintained for the future.

Border Collie Short Coat and Curly Coat

Border Collie For most of the history of the breed, the physical appearance of Border Collies was of secondary concern, perhaps more determined by climate and personal preference or random factors. The priority was always on the dog’s working ability. For a number of years (and continuing to the present) the recognition of the Border Collie breed by the American Kennel Club and the UKC had been strongly opposed by advocates of the breed who believe that a focus on breeding for specific appearance standards will generally weaken the working ability of the breed. Despite objections, in 1995 the AKC recognized standards for the Border Collie breed in the Herding Group.

Border Collie Standards. As a result of AKC and UKC registration, there now exists a standard of appearance in these breed-focused registries. Other stock dog registries (such as the North American Sheepdog Society - NASDS and the American Border Collie Association (ABCA) also continue to register litters from proven working dogs but are opposed to any type of conformation standard. So a “registered” Border Collie could mean a dog that comes from a number of different registries that are focused on very different standards. Given the diversity in appearance that has existed in the breed, all the variations in eye color, ear shape, size, color and coat type continue to be recognized as part of the Border Collie breed.

The American-International Border Collie Registry, Inc (AIBC) states that male Border Collies can be between the sizes of 18” to 24” in height at the shoulder and females 17” to 22”. It is not uncommon for males and females to be of the same size in this breed. Weight is from 30 and 60 pounds. The AKC supports a more narrow standard (Males 19” – 22” and 18” – 21” for females).

Eye Color. Variations are recognized in Border Collie eye color, which can be shades of brown from dark brown to light gold, or blue eyes. Variations in eye color: soft dark brown Shayla, blue-eyed Tessa, and light brown Kylie. The red-coated BCs often have lighter brown eyes. Border Collies can also have a greenish cast to their eyes, flecking (although that eye colorations is more common in Australian Shepherds) and eyes of two different colors (called bi-eyed).

Coat. Perhaps the area of most obvious variety is in coat, first in color and color pattern and second in coat length. Coat texture can vary from hard/coarse to soft/silky. Medium and long coats can also be straight, curly or wavy. The ideal coat (short or long) is double, with a dense undercoat and a somewhat coarse, outer coat.
Color: The “traditional” Border Collie is a medium sized dog (35-45 lbs), with a rough (medium long) black coat color with white markings arranged in the typical “collie” pattern (white blaze on face and white muzzle, white ruff encircling the neck, white chest, four white feet and a white tip on the end of the tail).

The second most frequent color of Border Collies would be the “reds”. This color can be seen with traditional white markings or variations in the white pattern with the reddish brown ranging from a dark mahogany brown to a pale rust shade. Other variations to the classic “collie” patterning also occur regularly. These dogs, called “patterned whites” come in many variations, from large areas of black, red or merle to mostly white on the body.

A less common basic color would be blonde/light tan with traditional white pattern. In some countries this strawberry blonde color is called “red” and the darker reddish-brown is called “brown”. Although seldom seen in rescued dogs, Border Collie coats have been produced in blue or red merle color, or a lilac cast (muted blue/gray), lemon/white (light gold) and even brindle coloring. Any of the colorations can also have small spotting (often called “ticking”) on the white areas (legs, face and chest). The ticking can vary from a few spots to very dense. Some refer to profusion of lots of small size ticking as a coat color called “sooty”

Coat Type (Length): When people become interested in Border Collies they often comment that they didn’t realize BCs could have short coats. In reality coat length varies from very short (called smooth coats), through medium, to a long, thick double coat (called rough coats). Usually the rough coated dogs have longer fur (feathering) on the backs of their legs and tail plume and a longer ruff (around their neck), with shorter fur on
the face and front of legs and feet. Examples of the variety of coat length are pictured here.

The Border Collie is an agile dog, able to suddenly change speed and direction without loss of balance and grace. When intent upon an object of interest (a toy, a treat, or stock) there is often a crouch or stalk position with a steady gaze (the Border Collie “eye”) and a lowered head. The movement is free, smooth and tireless, with a minimum lift of the feet and an overall balanced appearance. Typically the body is slightly longer than it is tall, and is capable of speed and quick reactions. Even the more appearance-focused breed registries (i.e., AKC) state that in Border Collies color and markings are always secondary to physical evaluation and gait.

When and if you decide to adopt a rescued Border Collie, understand that every dog is a unique individual with his own personality. Intelligence, trainability and instinct vary with each dog. The rewards of living with a Border Collie are many, once you understand the commitment.

American Staffordshire Terrier Strong and Muscular Dogs

General Impression: The American Staffordshire Terrier should give the impression of great strength for his size, a well puttogether dog, muscular, but agile and graceful, keenly alive to his surroundings. He should be stocky, not long-legged or racy in outline. His courage is proverbial..

Head:  Medium length, deep through, broad skull, very pronounced cheek muscles, distinct stop; and ears are set high.
Cropped or uncropped, the latter preferred. Uncropped ears should be short and held half prick or rose. Full drop to bepenalized..
Dark and round, low down in skull and set far apart. No pink eyelids.
Muzzle – Medium length, rounded on upper side to fall away abruptly below eyes. Jaws well defined. Underjaw to be strong and have biting power. Lips close and even, no looseness. Upper teeth to meet tightly outside lower teeth in front. Nose definitely black.

Neck: Heavy, slightly arched, tapering from shoulders to back of skull. No looseness of skin. Medium length. Shoulders Strong and muscular with blades wide and sloping.
Back – Fairly short. Slight sloping from withers to rump with gentle short slope at rump to base of tail. Loins slightly tucked..

Body: Well–sprung ribs, deep in rear. All ribs close together. Forelegs set rather wide apart to permit of chest development. Chest deep and broad.

Tail: Short in comparison to size, low set, tapering to a fine point; not curled or held over back. Not docked..
Legs – the front legs should be straight, large or round bones, pastern upright. No resemblance of bend in front. Hindquarters well muscled, let down at hocks turning neither in nor out. Feet of moderate size, well arched and compact. Gait must be springy but without roll or pace.

Coat: Short, close, stiff to the touch and glossy. Color – Any color, solid, parti, or patched is permissible, but all white, more than 80 per cent white, black and tan and liver not to be encouraged..

Size: Height and weight should be in proportion. A height of about 18 to 19 inches at the shoulders for the male and 17 to 18 inches for the female is to be considered preferable.

Faults: Faults to be penalized are Dudley nose, light or pink eyes, tail too long or badly carried, undershot or overshot mouths.

Staffordshire Bull Terrier In Fighting and Breeders

One of the most popular of all the terriers, the Staffordshire Bull Terrier is renowned for his courage, which unfortunately can lead him into bad ways with other Staffordshire Bull Terriers owing to his great tendency to ‘get his retaliation in first’. With the human race he is kindness itself.  e is descended from a cross between the Bulldog and a terrier, and thus combines the Staffordshire Bull Terrier temperaments of the two breeds. Fortunately, his genuine love of children is well known. Despite his historical connection with fighting, he has become a great favourite in the showring, but this has not been allowed to affect his traditional rugged looks.

You may be aware that some breeds of Staffordshire Bull Terrier (and crossbreeds too) can be susceptible to inherited disease. Of course you want to be sure that the puppy you choose is as healthy as possible, and you would like to know that it has not inherited any undesirable disease-causing genes from its parents. There is some help in that DNA tests for diseases in purebred dogs are available for some conditions in some breeds, but there are not very many such tests just yet! There are also, however, a number of clinical veterinary screening schemes that dog breeders can use to increase the probability of producing healthy puppies.

Puppy buyers should be aware that, at present, the application of various health screening results to breeding programmes is not always straightforward, and breeders may make choices for various reasons. A responsible breeder though, will always be willing to discuss relevant health issues with you. Breed clubs are often useful sources of breed-specific information.

German Shepherd Dog or Herder Is Combat Dogs

The first impression of a good German Shepherd Dog is that of a strong, agile, well muscled animal, alert and full of life. It is well balanced, with harmonious development of the forequarter and hindquarter. The dog is longer than tall, deep-bodied, and presents an outline of smooth curves rather than angles. It looks substantial and not spindly, giving the impression, both at rest and in motion, of muscular fitness and nimbleness without any look of clumsiness or soft living. The ideal dog is stamped with a look of quality and nobility--difficult to define, but unmistakable when present. Secondary sex characteristics are strongly marked, and every animal gives a definite impression of masculinity or femininity, according to its sex.
German Shepherd Dog Temperament
The breed has a distinct personality marked by direct and fearless, but not hostile, expression, self-confidence and a certain aloofness that does not lend itself to immediate and indiscriminate friendships. The dog must be approachable, quietly standing its ground and showing confidence and willingness to meet overtures without itself making them. It is poised, but when the occasion demands, eager and alert; both fit and willing to serve in its capacity as companion, watchdog, blind leader, herding dog, or guardian, whichever the circumstances may demand. The dog must not be timid, shrinking behind its master or handler; it should not be nervous, looking about or upward with anxious expression or showing nervous reactions, such as tucking of tail, to strange sounds or sights.

Lack of confidence under any surroundings is not typical of good character. Any of the above deficiencies in character which indicate shyness must be penalized as very serious faults and any dog exhibiting pronounced
indications of these must be excused from the ring. It must be possible for the judge to observe the teeth and to determine that both testicles are descended. Any dog that attempts to bite the judge must be disqualified. The ideal dog is a working animal with an incorruptible character combined with body and gait suitable for the arduous work that constitutes its primary purpose.

German Shepherd Dog Size, Proportion, Substance
The desired height for males at the top of the highest point of the shoulder blade is 24 to 26 inches; and for bitches, 22 to 24 inches. The German Shepherd Dog is longer than tall, with the most desirable proportion as 10 to 8. The length is measured from the point of the prosternum or breastbone to the rear edge of the pelvis, the ischial tuberosity. The desirable long proportion is not derived from a long back, but from overall length with relation to height, which is achieved by length of forequarter and length of withers and hindquarter, viewed from the side.

German Shepherd Dog Head
The head is noble, cleanly chiseled, strong without coarseness, but above all not fine, and in proportion to the body. The head of the male is distinctly masculine, and that of the bitch distinctly feminine. The expression keen, intelligent and composed. Eyes of medium size, almond shaped, set a little obliquely and not protruding. The color is as dark as possible. Ears are moderately pointed, in proportion to the skull, open toward the front, and carried erect when at attention, the ideal carriage being one in which the center lines of the ears, viewed from the front, are parallel to each other and perpendicular to the ground. A dog with cropped or hanging ears must be disqualified.

Seen from the front the forehead is only moderately arched, and the skull slopes into the long, wedge-shaped muzzle without abrupt stop. The muzzle is long and strong, and its topline is parallel to the topline of the skull. Nose black. A dog with a nose that is not predominantly black must be disqualified. The lips are firmly fitted. Jaws are strongly developed. Teeth 42 in number--20 upper and 22 lower--are strongly developed and meet in a scissors bite in which part of the inner surface of the upper incisors meet and engage part of the outer surface of the lower incisors. An overshot jaw or a level bite is undesirable. An undershot jaw is a disqualifying fault. Complete dentition is to be preferred. Any missing teeth other than first premolars is a serious fault.

German Shepherd Dog Neck, Topline, Body
The neck is strong and muscular, clean-cut and relatively long, proportionate in size to the head and without loose folds of skin. When the dog is at attention or excited, the head is raised and the neck carried high; otherwise typical carriage of the head is forward rather than up and but little higher than the top of the shoulders, particularly in motion. Topline The withers are higher than and sloping into the level back. The
back is straight, very strongly developed without sag or roach, and relatively short. The whole structure of the body gives an impression of depth and solidity without bulkiness.

Chest : Commencing at the prosternum, it is well filled and carried well down between the legs. It is deep and capacious, never shallow, with ample room for lungs and heart, carried well forward, with the prosternum showing ahead of the shoulder in profile. Ribs well sprung and long, neither barrelshaped nor too flat, and carried down to a sternum which reaches to the elbows. Correct ribbing allows the elbows to move back freely when the dog is at a trot. Too round causes interference and throws the elbows out; too flat
or short causes pinched elbows. Ribbing is carried well back so that the loin is relatively short. Abdomen firmly held and not paunchy. The bottom line is only moderately tucked up in the loin.

German Shepherd Dog Forequarters
The shoulder blades are long and obliquely angled, laid on flat and not placed forward. The upper arm joins the shoulder blade at about a right angle. Both the upper arm and the shoulder blade are well muscled. The
forelegs, viewed from all sides, are straight and the bone oval rather than round. The pasterns are strong and springy and angulated at approximately a 25-degree angle from the vertical. Dewclaws on the forelegs may be
removed, but are normally left on. The feet are short, compact with toes well arched, pads thick and firm, nails short and dark.

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Field Spaniel Is an Individual and Hallmark of The Breed

The Field Spaniel is a noble upstanding sporting spaniel built for speed and endurance and therefore should not resemble any of those breeds used to keep him in existence. He should not be short in leg and long in body like the many Sussex Spaniel crosses in the establishment of this breed. He should not remind you of a Cocker, short in leg and square in body. The last cross with the English Springer left us with Fields that are long in leg with thin or under- developed bodies, that leave the dog unbalanced for his size.

He is an individual and should look like a Field. He needs to be slightly off square, his body length slightly
longer than his leg length. This breed has well developed chest and prosternum, both in depth and width. We require a moderate spring of rib with a strong and level topline, and a strong short loin. Well-developed second thighs in conjunction with well let down hocks give great strength to the hind quarters. A cut up to the thighs is totally incorrect for this breed, as are long loins that afford the dog no drive from the hindquarters.

His tail should be set on below the level of the back and carried no higher than the back. He requires substantial drive from the hindquarters to move correctly, he is a well developed and heavy dog for his size. He is not a small spaniel, being approximately 18 inches in height and weighing up to 50 pounds. The lay of the shoulder needs to be balanced at the other end with the turn of stifle. I would expect as judges/breeders, you would understand that the hardest thing on any breed to achieve is the correct lay of shoulder and length of upper arm.

I don’t think that as trainee judges a comment like “it’s short in upper arm” is in any way constructive to understanding this breed, let alone to judge it. Look at the dog and see what it does have that the breed requires. Yes, it could have a better length of upper arm, but it has good bone, nice size, and is balanced. The front is only a part of the overall dog and I see plenty of other breeds winning day in day out that are not exactly correct in the shoulder. The lay of the shoulder needs to be balanced at the other end with the turn of stifle and our standard calls for a moderate turn of stifle.

Heads are the hallmark of this breed and to some enthusiasts, set them apart. The foreface should be slightly longer than from the stop to occiput, pronounced eyebrows, and the chiselling beneath the eyes finish the
picture. Without this chiselling, the head is rather plain. Almond-shaped eyes with colouring that matches the coat are correct. Remember that a liver Field’s eye colour will darken as it gets older and a black’s will lighten. Light eyes are a throwback to the Sussex in our lines.

When judging was done on a point score system the whole head was only 20 points out of a possible 100, so
please take this into consideration when judging this breed. I would much rather a dog with a plain head be
placed first than one with a long loin going up. I would not penalise a dog with missing or misplaced teeth.
You can see that the jaw is correct when you look into a mouth, this is a working breed and in my opinion
should not be penalised.

He has a long unhurried stride, or an effortless gait, that gives the appearance of great stamina, straight and true as seen from the front and rear. To judge correct movement the dog needs to be shown on a loose lead. The dog needs to be able to lower its head as it moves into its gait and should not be “strung up” as the dog then cannot move as it would if it was working. To see the reach in the front the head will move out and the front paws will extend and a line could be drawn from the tip of the dog’s muzzle to its feet as it moves around the ring. Rear movement should be judged from the dog’s pads as it moves, rather than watching their legs. Fields are very slow maturers and the hindquarters may take time to tighten up.

This does not mean that a dog should have cow hocks or move closely behind. They must be wide and square when viewed from behind, and it is near impossible to have a dog with the correct turn of stifle, thick well-muscled loin, and well let down hocks to be close behind. This breed needs to be in good hard working condition he is, after all, a Gundog.

The First Field Spaniel Club Show Dog Food and Dog Supplies

The first ever Field Spaniel club show was organized in May 2009 in Rönnvik wineyard in Pälkäne. The judge was Chris Attwood from the home country of the breed, Great Britain. The turn out was unexpected, 40 Field Spaniels, which is unheard of in one dog show. The normal amount of Field Spaniels in the biggest show of the year, the Finnish Winner Show is around 15. Unfortunately the weather wasn’t favourable to the show, but a heavy rain started to fall at the same time judging started. We are lucky our dogs are not made of sugar, but held the rain like the water monsters they are! The rain caused a lot more suffering to the handlers and show organisers, however.

Also the age span of the showed dogs was impressive from 5 months to nearly 12 years of age. Unlike most
shows, the Club Show accepted all Field Spaniels, including neutered males, and everyone received a written evaluation. There was 8 puppies, 17 adult males and 15 adult females. We also had 4 breeder groups. In addition to normal judging classes, the winners were selected for seven special classes; the best head, best body, best temperament, best tail, best movement and best colouring, which was separated into self-coloured (including white chested dogs) and coloured Field Spaniels.

The Club Show also featured a massive 100 prize draw, which has become somewhat of a tradition in the Finnish Club events; there’s usually more prizes than there are people attending! The prizes included dog food and dog supplies amongst other items. The club is planning to repeat the show next year, and a lovely spring weather has been pre-ordered for the event.

English Springer Dog History and Enlarging the Gene Pool

Thinking to enlarge the gene pool, they mated Lalage twice to Lady Lambe’s English Springer dog, Ch Waddon Chase Duke, and the litters went in the interbred register then kept by the Kennel Club. Unfortunately, no one took advantage of puppies from either litter and it was left to Mrs Tannant Of Rhiwlas to discover a two year old bitch from one of them and bring her into the fold under the name of Sherelake of Rhiwlas. Sherelake was bred to Justice and her daughter, Red Imp of Rhiwlas, went to Royalist and two dogs from the litter feature in today’s pedigrees, Ronayne Regal and Gormac Teal, the latter dog later coming under the Tanants’ ownership.

Mr and Mrs Everton joined the breed under the Ridware affix and, acquiring Columbina, mated her to her half-brother, Regal, and bred the Jones’ second bitch, black ShCh Ridware Samantha, and the liver dog, Ridware Emperor was used on Morwenna to breed ShCh Little Corporal of Mittina. Lise and Vanessa of Mittina and Juno of Elmbury was put to Gormac Teal and bred Mrs Jones’ litter of Jonathan, SbCh Jillian and ShCh Juanita. Roger Hall Jones used Gormac Teal on Juno to produce the important Elmbury A-litter Ch Adam, Ch Adrian, ShCh Anna, ShCh Alice and Anthony.

Of the J litter, Jonathan of Mittina, mated to ShCh Mittina Little Owl, who was out of Lise and by Mittina
Shamus, a Jonathan son, bred ShCh Langvine Larch, reserve in the Gundog Group at Crufts, who is behind
the Shirmal and Coralmist lines on the maternal side, and ShCh Langvine Loganberry behind Silksheen,
Winterwood and Gatnefell. Descended from ShCh Juanita, who was the foundation bitch at Rimaelia, are the Donholmes, the Nadavins and the Sawoods. ShCh Jillian of Mittina was the dam of Templetrine Michael (by Ridware Emperor) and of Templetrine Mark Anthony and Little Bo Peep when mated to Anthony of Elmbury. Wedden and Tayowen are descended from these lines. Another Mittina litter which had an influence on today’s Fields was the breeding of Samantha to Little Corporal which resulted in the bitches Mittina Sara and Mittina Bonnie.

Of the ‘A’ family, Anna, who went to found the Dayhouse kennel, had four litters to Michael and bred a line of important Dayhouse matrons. Lydemoor, Silksheen, Nantddu, Moroto, Elgert and Winterwood are all descended from these. Two important dogs descend from Anna Dayhouse Barnaby behind the Shirmals, and Dayhouse Henry behind the Morotos. From the Lydemoors came ShCh Lydemoor Llewelyn of Nantddu and ShCh Lydemoor Lionel. From the Morotos Sh Ch Moroto Chorus, sire of the ShCh Coralmist Camillia and Conquistador, and of ShCh Shirmal Moonlight Serenade, winner of 23 challenge certificates, ShCh Moroto Chorister, Am Ch Glad Tidings of Westacres, one of the top sires in the States, and Moroto Choirboy who, when mated to the Edward Adam, mated to Mittina Bonnie, bred ShCh Dayhouse Bruce, the sire of ShChs Lydemoor Lionel and Llewellyn. Adam, used on the liver roan bitch Rhiwlas Lady Abernant, bred ShCh Adamant of Westacres,


The Clumber is rectangular in shape possessing massive bone structure and has the appearance of great power. The ideal height for dogs is 18 to 20 inches at the withers and for bitches is 17 to 19 inches at the withers. The ideal length to height is 11 to 9 measured from the withers to the base of the tail and from the floor to the withers. Dogs weigh between 70 and 85 pounds and bitches weigh between 55 and 70 pounds. As an example, a dog that stands 19 inches at the withers is approximately 23.2 inches in length from the withers to the base of the tail.The Clumber is not measured in the ring.

The head is massive with a marked stop and heavy brow. The top skull is flat with a pronounced occiput. A slight furrow runs between the eyes and up through the center of the skull. The muzzle is broad and deep to facilitate retrievingmany species of game. The nose is large, square and colored in shades of brown, which include beige, rose and cherry. The flews of the upper jaware strongly developed and overlap the lower jawto
give a square look when viewed from the side.

There are several acceptable Clumber Spaniel head types that fit the standard description. Some examples are depicted in the following sketches. The Clumber head should not be plain or unappealing. The eyes are dark amber in color, large, soft in expression, and deep set in either a diamond shaped rim or a rim with a “V” on the bottom and a curve on the top. Some haw may show but excessive haw is undesirable. Prominent or round shaped eyes are to be penalized. Excessive tearing or evidence of entropion or ectropion is to be penalized.

The haw is the nictitating membrane or inner eyelid of the dog, and is a breed characteristic of the Clumber. When the old Clumber Spaniel standards were being written and re-written, there was a great deal of controversy about the presence and amount of haw that should be required on the Clumber. It was generally decided that a moderate amount of haw was necessary to stamp breed type.

Entropion is an inversion or rolling inward of the margin of the eyelid. Conjunctival or corneal irritation causes blinking and tearing. Ectropion is an eversion of the eyelid, characterized by an outward rolling of the eyelid, exposing the conjunctiva to drying, dust and debris.

The ear is attached at about eye level. Degree of alertness, curiosity, level of interest, and mood alter the position of the ear dramatically. Color and markings may alter the perception of ear set. The carriage of the ear changes the expression and can appear to change the shape of the head. Fully alert Clumbers will have a high ear carriage. This illustration depicts the same dog with a relaxed and alert expression.

Clumber Spaniel General Aparance Powerful Hindquarters

The Clumber Spaniel is a long, low and substantial dog. His heavy brow, deep chest, straight forelegs, powerful hindquarters, massive bone and good feet all give him the power and endurance to move through dense underbrush in pursuit of game. His white coat enables him to be seen by the hunter as he works within gun range. His stature is dignified, his expression pensive, but at the same time he shows great enthusiasm for his work and play.

The Clumber Spaniel is a sporting dog that was developed by the aristocracy of Europe as a hunting dog for upland game. As such, the Clumber was a spaniel of massive substance that generally worked in packs close to the hunter. The Clumber Spaniel has evolved into a devoted companion of outstanding character and appeal. As a companion dog his charm, independence, warmth of character and creativity of spirit make him second to none. In the field, Clumbers have maintained their outstanding hunting abilities.

The description of the ideal Clumber Spaniel bitch parallels that of the ideal Clumber Spaniel dog, but bitches have somewhat less substance, size and furnishings. The Clumber Spaniel is versatile in the field. He is a flushing dog and a retriever used for upland game, such as quail, pheasant, woodcock, grouse, dove, and also ducks and rabbits. This dog possesses enormous physical strength. A long low body and a heavy coat enable him to do what few other sporting dogs can do, that is, he can work in extremely heavy undergrowth in fields and ditches where game is most likely to hide. Brambles and briars do not deter this dog. He will fight his way through them if he scents birds. His coat protects his body and his heavy brow protects his eyes.

The Clumber works within gun range of the hunter, and his all white coat makes him easily seen while working. His bold nature, calmness, intelligence and good disposition aid his abilities in the field. Upon scenting game, the Clumber displays an amazing burst of energy and birdiness that subsides only when the game is bagged.

To point out his versatility, it must be stated that the Clumber is a strong swimmer, and his large feet and heavy, water resistant coat enable him to perform comfortably as a water retriever in all kinds of weather. Clumbers are deliberate swimmers and their water retrieving is reliable. The Clumber has a very keen nose and soft mouth. His ability to find and retrieve game is one of his outstanding features.

The Clumber's nose makes him a natural dog for tracking work, and his happy disposition and loyalty are beneficial when it comes to obedience and other performance events. He is most often an enthusiastic worker, adding his own antics to the routines to make them interesting.